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Jez O’Hare and his trike, at home in Bandung.

You’ve probably seen his photographs in magazines, perhaps in a coffee-table book on the Wallace Line or the Indonesian archipelago, maybe even in an advertisement for a high-definition television. They are those rare images that capture the essence of a place, showing us an aspect that is unique and rare; images that require not only passion, drive, planning, and courage, but also a piece of equipment that creates its own centrifugal force, called a gyro stabilizer, and a micro light aircraft. Jez O’Hare’s images from above inspire travel, exploration and poetry, offering us an escape into a world that we can’t quite make tangible and triggering a mind, heart and soul reaction of awe at the beauty of Indonesia.

Flying towards Bromo, East Java.

Driving through Bandung to meet Jez, it’s not hard to see why so many artists, architects and intellectuals have made this city their hub in Java. Dotted with ancient evergreens around winding roads wrapping up and down hills, I went past Indonesia’s most esteemed Universities and made my way through a residential neighborhood that ended on the edge of a valley. I could see a slice of the view behind what has been Jez’s home for the last 8 years.

Several dogs welcomed me with barks of varying tone and volume. Slowly a lean, Celtic-looking gentleman made his way through the canine mass and approached the large green wrought iron gate. “Hi Avi, have you had lunch?” he inquired softly as a boyish spark twinkled in his eyes. His accent was unusual; British grammar school mingled with soft hints of Indonesian. “I haven’t been speaking too much English these days, at least not with people who have English as their first language.”

Above the Kei Islands.

Still in his early forties, Jez has been capturing images of Indonesia for almost 25 years now. His family moved to Indonesia in early 1974, when his father took an expatriate position as a director of a major British safe manufacturer. His specialisation in photographing Indonesia was like a karmic calling when he was on holiday from university in the UK, where he was studying scientific illustration.

“I always thought photography was too difficult,” he said with a smile. “I was still a student and had some time off, that’s when I heard there were still some stone-age people living in Papua – Irian Jaya back then – and I couldn’t believe it.” Grabbing a couple of cameras and lenses, Jez set off on the Pelni at age 19. “I ended up staying for two months!” he grinned. “Then when I got back, my Dad’s secretary invited me to submit my images to a travel magazine, Suasana, now out of print. And I got the cover!” His excitement is still palpable.
At the heart of Jez’s photography is a deep passion for exploration. “It’s about getting that photograph that no one else has taken before.” And this, perhaps, leads me to the best way of describing Jez; an explorer with a desire to go where no one’s gone before.

Ngga Glacier, Papua.

Things started to move pretty quickly after that first publication. He worked with a film production company – “they threw me in the deep-end, and I was learning a lot,” – and continued developing his photography and exploring Indonesia. This took him on various aerial photography projects: “I figured, the only way to see Indonesia is to go by air.” Then, in 1995, he had a crash in a microlight “and I thought, shit, better I learn to fly myself.”.
Shortly after getting out of the hospital the first thing Jez did was to get flying lessons. Starting with a paramotor, flying with a parachute and a fan strapped to his back, he had to overcome the fear from his recent accident, learn to fly and “learn how to take photographs from the air while strapped to a parachute and motor.” The first two flights were “not so good,” but on the third, “it was at sunset and I was thinking to myself, ‘I’m flying!’” Eventually he moved on to a microlight aircraft, or trike, which he modified to make the seat lower so that he would have the freedom to use his camera.

Jez on his trike.

Jez is meticulous in his planning and self-discipline. “There’s basically three things, three conditions that you need to be sure of,” he explained as I learned what it took to get flying. “First, the condition of your craft; second your own condition and the third; the media – your runway, the weather. Don’t fly unless you’re sure about these three conditions.”

“I’ve got desalination tablets and a lifeboat on my trike, so it’s okay to fly over large expanses of water,” he added in a matter-of-fact tone.

In 2005, Jez took Indonesian citizenship. “I could spend the rest of my life photographing this place,” he told me. “And also, I just got tired of going to Immigration every year.”

And his next adventure? “My dream is to fly throughout Indonesia on my trike, starting from Java.” I’m already beginning to dream of where he’ll take us next.

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Vikas Swarup, author of Q&A (a.k.a. Slumdog Millionaire) and Six Suspects, is set to appear at the 2009 Ubud Writers and Readers Festival.

Q. Your appearance at the festival next week is much anticipated, we’re looking forward to seeing you here. Will this be your first visit to Bali?
A. Absolutely. I am very much looking forward to the visit, having heard so much about the fabled beauty of Bali.

Q. You were inspired to start writing your debut novel, Q&A, while living in London. What was it that prompted you? Had you always felt that you had a novel or several lurking inside you?
A. I am an ‘accidental’ writer. I used to write in my school days and even won some creative writing contests. But I never thought I would be a novelist and did not write a word of fiction for almost fifteen years. It was only when I was posted in London that I got inspired to try my hand at fiction, motivated by some of my contemporaries in the Foreign Service who had written novels, and by the city of London itself, which is such a vibrant cultural hub.

Q. On a practical note, how did you find the time and keep the motivation to finish Q&A in two months, given that you didn’t share what you were doing with family and friends, while also keeping your career as a diplomat on track?
A. The plot of the novel was fully formed in my head. I just had to write it down (or, type it on my computer). Since I was in a busy day job, I used the evenings of the weekdays to do my research, and on weekends and holidays I wrote, even managing 20,000 words on one occasion.

Q. You were born into a family of lawyers in Allahabad. Can you remember when you first saw a slum, or became aware of the extremes of poverty and wealth that exist in India? Did you ever encounter kids like Ram Mohammad Thomas and his brother?
A. No one in India leads a hermetically sealed life. The rich and poor live constantly intersecting lives. The gap of income and wealth is something you become aware of very early on. Not only did I visit slum areas, I had several friends from there with whom I played cricket. You can encounter boys like Ram Mohammad Thomas every day in India.

Q. When writing the novel, did you have any sense of the immense reaction it might receive? Did you already envision it as a movie? At one point, it seemed that it might be made into a Bollywood film, do you think this is still a possibility?
A. I knew that I was on to a good thing, that the plot was new and it was a unique way of telling a story. But never in my wildest dreams could I have imagined that it would get translated into 42 languages and become an Oscar-winning film. If at all I visualised it as a film, I thought it would be a Bollywood film and that film would probably also have been set in Dharavi but you could bet your bottom dollar there would have been a couple of dream song sequences set in Switzerland!

Q. When the film ‘Slumdog Millionaire’ was released in India, some were upset and offended by it – why do you think this was? Did you experience any reactions like this with the release of the book?
A. I think people were upset by what they thought was an overemphasis on the poverty and slums of India. Fortunately the canvas of my book was much wider than simply Dharavi and I did not encounter any negative reactions with the book.

Q. The book is a story about the possibilities that are within all of us, and how lives can go through dramatic transformations – in a way this is mirrored by the story behind the book; you were an unknown author, as yet unpublished in India, and you wrote in two months a debut novel that has been picked up by publishers all over the world and made into a blockbuster Oscar-winning movie, you hang out with people like Oprah and already have a second novel set to be filmed… Do you believe in luck? Destiny? Hard work?
A. I believe there is no shortcut to success. You have to put in hard work, but then you also need that little bit of luck to carry you all the way. I don’t believe in destiny as something foreordained. Basically you create your own luck.

Q. Your follow-up novel, ‘Six Suspects’, is structured as a thrilling whodunnit. Your young son read the ending, and then threatened to give the game away on Facebook – did he follow through on this? Was there a big payoff?
A. Teenagers are very persistent. I had to give him an MP3 player to buy his silence!

Q. Do you foresee that writing may one day become a full time job, or are you still very much committed to your work with the Indian Foreign Service? Is there a gripping novel about Indian diplomats somewhere in the pipeline?
A. I love my job and take great pride in representing my country especially at a time when India is the flavour of the world. Having a day job means that I can write only in my spare time. But having the security of the day job makes it easier for me to write. I don’t think readers will be interested in a diplomat’s real life trivia. I’d much rather entertain them with fiction!

Vikas Swarup appears at the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, October 7th-11th 2009. For complete programme details, visit www.ubudwritersfestival.com.

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Ubud Writers and Readers Festival founder, Janet De Neefe.

Kabar asked festival founder/director Janet De Neefe what she’s particularly looking forward to this year: here she recommends her top 5 things to see at the festival.

“1. Wole Soyinka – a senior statesman of global literature and the first Black African to be awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature. Be inspired.

2. the annual poetry slam – this year we have some of the world’s best performance poets, so hang on to your hats. Features the winner of 2008 Australian National Poetry Slam, Omar Musa. Be entertained.

3. Literary Lunches – the most divine venues Ubud has to offer with a glittering cast of international and Indonesian speakers. ‘Dangerous Women’ will feature some of the strongest female literary stars of 2009 and Wole Soyinka with Hari Kunzru at the Four Seasons is guaranteed to knock your socks off! Be enthralled.

4. Tribute to WS Rendra – join us in celebrating the life, works and legacy of the ‘peacock’ of Indonesian literature. Be moved.

5. Out of the eighteen workshops available, I’d love to do the ‘Introduction to Screenwriting’ with UK screenwriter Asitha Ameresekere. He’s planning to show some scenes from films and distribute scripted scenes to show what happens in the transfer from page to screen.”

Each year throws up interesting authors that many attendees either haven’t heard of before or haven’t got around to reading yet. This year, Kabar asked the UWRF team which books you should read before the festival. Here are their top 10 suggestions:

1. Wole Soyinka’s ‘Poems from Prison’
2. Lloyd Jones’ ‘Mr Pip‘
3. Julia Leigh’s ‘Disquiet‘
4. Tom Cho‘s ‘Look Who’s Morphing’
5. Hari Kunzru’s ‘My Revolutions‘
6 Neel Murkherjee‘s ‘Past Continuous’
7. Vikas Swarup’s ‘Six Suspects‘, ‘Q&A‘
8. Seno Gumira Ajidarma‘s ‘Eyewitness’
9. Bejan Matur’s ‘In the Temple of a Patient God‘
10. Mohammad Hanif’s ‘A Case of Exploding Mangoes‘

For the full program and schedule of the 2009 Ubud Writers and Readers Festival, visit www.ubudwritersfestival.com

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St. Regis, Bali.

FEATURED SPECIALS

Hotel Santika Premiere Jogja
Decorated with a variety of classic Javanese ornaments, this four-star
hotel is only 20 minutes away from the airport, 10 minutes from the
main shopping areas and 5 minutes from the train station, and offers
all the facilities and convenience required by business and leisure
travellers alike. Guests can enjoy views of the hotel swimming pool,
the bright lights of the city or the magnificent Merapi volcano.
For fur ther information and Kitas rates,
T: +62 274 563036, 562743,
E: jogjapremiere@santika.com.
reservation@jogjapremiere.santika.com

The Phoenix Hotel, Yogyakarta
Superior Room Rp.750,000 net/room/night
See profile of The Phoenix on page 52 of issue 03 of Kabar & Expat Indonesia.
For terms, conditions, and additional benefits, please contact
T: +62 274 566617
E: info@thephoenixyogya.com
www.mgallery.com

Best Western New Kuta Condotel (Kawasan Pecatu Indah Resort)
Special Domestic Package: Rp. 1,500,000 net
(Valid for Indonesian Citizens and KITAS Holders)
Includes: Two nights stay in a Superior Room, Free return airport transfer,
Refreshment welcome drink and cold towel upon arrival,Daily breakfast for two persons,
One time Set Lunch or Dinner at Kayu Manis Restaurant,
Tropical fruits basket upon arrival.
Validity immediately until September 30th, 2009
High season surcharge applies from
July 1st – August 15th and September 17th – 27th, 2009
For terms, conditions, and additional benefits, please contact
T: +62 361 8484 555
E: reservation@bwnewkutacondotel.com
www.bwnewkutacondotel.com

Kamandalu Resort & Spa (Ubud)
Ubud Peaceful Package (net/villa/night): Ubud Chalet Rp.1,550,000,
Duplex Villa Rp.2,890,000, Garden Villa Rp.2,170,000, Pool Villa
Rp.3,320,000, Deluxe Pool Villa Rp.4,600,000, Two Bedroom Pool
Villa Rp.6,500,000.
For terms, conditions, and additional benefits, please contact
T: +62 361 975825
E: sales@kamandaluresort.com
www.kamandaluresort.com

Maya Ubud Resort & Spa
Ubud Escape Package (per room/night):
• Superior Room Rp.1,500,000
• Superior Garden Villa Rp.1,900,000
• Deluxe Pool Villa Rp.2,300,000.
For terms, conditions, and additional benefits, please contact
T: +62 361 977888
E: info@mayaubud.com
www.mayaubud.com

Other Specials:
Bali
Java
Sulawesi
Sumatra

If you have a hotel or resort anywhere in Indonesia and would like to share special offers with our readers, contact us at
ed@kabarmag.com.

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Grand Swiss Belhotel Medan
Weekend Getaway Package:
Rp. 595,000 net / 1-night stay
Rp. 1,100,000 net / 2-night stay
For terms, conditions, and additional benefits,
please contact +62 61 4576999.

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Ciputra Golf Surabaya
Swing and Stay Package: (Weekdays)
Superior Single USD 88 net, Superior Double
USD 144 net, Deluxe Single USD 93 net,
Deluxe Double USD 149 net.
(Weekends from) Superior Single USD 130 net,
Superior Double USD 223 net, Deluxe Single
USD 135 net, Deluxe Double USD 228 net.
For terms, conditions, and additional benefits,
please contact +62 31 741 2555.
www.ciputragolf.com

Losari Coffee Plantation, Central Java
Weekdays Special: Arum Villa Rp.1,900,000++
per night (for 2)
For terms, conditions, and additional benefits,
please contact +62 298 596333 or
info@losaricoffeeplantation.com.
www.losaricoffeeplantation.com,
www.slh.com/losari

Hotel Nikko Jakarta
Superior Room Rp.800,000 net,
Deluxe Room Rp.1,250,000 net.
For terms, conditions, and additional benefits,
please contact +62 21 2301122.
http://www.nikkojakarta.com

Kemang Icon, Jakarta
Expat Offer:
Courtyard Suite Rp.1,450,000++,
Inner Courtyard Rp.1,750,000++,
The Edge Suite Rp.2,250,000++.
For terms, conditions, and additional benefits,
please contact +62 21 7197989.
www.alilahotels.com/kemangicon

Nextage Tea Garden Resort, Bandung
10% discount for KITAS holders and
Indonesian citizens. 30% discount & special
treatment for guests staying on their birthday
or Golden/Silver anniversary.
For terms, conditions, and additional benefits,
please contact +62 815 73006888
or +62 260 470962.

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